Middle of October 2006

Hey Everyone,

Hello!! Let me just first say that I am really missing you guys and I wish I could hear your voices! I’m going to send this letter to my Mom, and then maybe she can type it into an email – letters are fairly expensive to send, because we’re now living on Delassi and we’re living on the equivalent of other Gambian life-costs. So… we have D900 (=$30) until November 1! I bought a beer on the beach (D40), required cola nuts to bring to our host families (1/2 kilo, D160), some dates (D5), whisky (D50), and 3 ½ letters worth of stamps (D120) – D375 total. I still need laundry soap, toilet paper, etc., so it’s a tight little budget.

So! We’re all here, staying in dorms at this little training center. We’ve been split up into language training groups: 15 are learning Mandinka, 6 are learning Fula, 4 Woolof – that’s me! Although all 3 languages (and several others too) are spoken all over the country, there are concentrated areas of each. Woolof is the main language spoken by the Senegalese (which makes me happy because I can travel to Senegal and get around) and is concentrated in the more urban areas, like around the capital (Banjul) here and in the north-west part of the country. So, not to speculate, but it may be that I’ll have some electricity or at least closer access to it. We won’t get our assignments for a month or so more.

During the next 10 weeks, the 4 Woolof’s and our teacher will be living with our individual host families in Sare Saamba – a very rural village on the Sought border of Senegal. Mostly in Sare Saamba, we’ll be learning Woolof. Every other week, we get together at camp Ten-da-ba (look it up on the net, its cool-http://www.moxon.net/the_gambia/tendaba.html) and have more learning sessions – stuff (also, all our agriculture skills and classes, bee keeping, etc. a.k.a “sweet skills”) less geared toward language, like filed trips, cultural stuff. So we’ll be going back and forth between Sare Saamba with our language groups/Ten-da-ba with everyone.

Woolof is so cool. It sounds very Caribbean. This is my favorite phrase so far. It’s part of the extensive greetings. Goes like this: Naka leegey bi? (Knock-a lee-gay{stretch this syllable out}?) May ci kawam, ndanka, ndanka. (Mong cheek o-wam, n-donk-a, n-donk-a {emphasis on donk}). And it means – “How’s your job?” And then (best part!) “I’m on it, slowly, slowly.” This is a standard line in their greetings, if that tells you anything about the culture!

Our training center is a catholic mission owned place, very small but pretty with lots of flowers, trees. The birds here are amazing! My roommate Katie and several others are into birding and bought the one and only Gambian bird book. I might like to get into that a little at my site.

We’re training just outside Banjul (BAN-jewl) the capital (only 30,000). We have toilets that flush sometimes, some electricity, running cold showers. It is so f’ing hot/humid here, and our room doesn’t have a fan so at first it was hard to sleep. We take cold showers right before bed, then lay around dripping into your pillow. But it’s better now, I’ve been sleeping like a babe – during the day there’s a nice maritime breeze.

I got my first bout of stomach troubles today, but I think it’s from eating the cola nuts yesterday. We were all walking through the market, supposed to buy cola nuts to bring to our host families. It was crazy, pretty exciting – but we all were wondering what was so cool about them ,because people give them as thank you gifts, celebration gifts, can I marry a few of your daughters gifts, everything… and they’re kind of a stimulant of sorts (I haven’t really felt anything, so I guess it’s subtle, but I trust them!) So, we all started chewing on them, even thought their gross, we wanted to be Gambians, Their tubers and they taste like little raw potatoes. Any who, we didn’t wash them and so…I got a little sick.

The food here is just a scotch monotonous…rice, hard white bread, over cooked but yummy veggies and meat in spicy really good sauce and fried fish…everything with palm oil, kinda greasy. Yuck-o “porridge” for breakfast, spam sandwiches (oh, sorry “corned beef”) for tea time, yogurt and papaya/watermelon for dessert.

We’ve had some really awesome training…I’m so pumped up about all the possibilities for projects. The Gambia has a constant growing season, and endless crops they haven’t taken advantage of…just tons we can do here, seriously…more about all that later, but I’m excited. Our trips have taken us also to a mosque, an eco-tourist resort (sweetest site placement ever!), a little mini-zoo run by a hippie-Belgium man with three wives. This naked son ran around with us carrying harmless giant pythons around his neck…that was a great time. My fear of snakes is dissipating, as is the needle fear…which I think is so cool.

More about my interesting group of PCV’s (Peace Corps Volunteers) later. Ok, I love you all very much – I’m loving every moment of this ride, learning and soaking up so much. Please write, and tell me details of that’s up with you. Also, sending money instead of goodies is wonderful (smaller bills!).

Love,
Steph

PS If you want to send me packages read the package link on my blog. Stuff that can easily fit in a padded envelop: spices (cumin, pepper, et.) powdered Gatorade, CD’s, Pictures PLEASE!! (laminated), etc.

*Possibly later: protein/fiber powders, bird book, binoculars

* Speakers!! Maybe that can work for my CD player & IPod Shuffle. Card reader for my camera (though one guy does have one, so let’s wait on this).

*Solar powered battery charger (batteries here suck and I don’t wanna keep buying and throwing away – which means dumping down my pit latrine.